Himachal Pradesh has two faces. Shimla, the old summer capital of British India, is a hill town of colonial buildings reached by a narrow-gauge railway. Beyond it, Kinnaur is a high valley of apple orchards, wooden temples and peaks above 6,000 metres, much quieter and far more remote.
This journey takes the toy train up to Shimla, then drives into the Kinnaur valley by way of Sarahan and Sangla to Kalpa. The roads are mountain roads, so we pace the days, choose stays with a view and keep a buffer for landslides.