Honest, useful guides from the people who plan and travel these journeys every day.
How to see the Taj when it is quiet, golden and uncrowded.
Practical guides and notes for travelling in India.
Four, five or six days: what fits and what to leave for next time.
Seasons, festivals and what to expect in each region.
Bazaars, mosques and the best way to see them without feeling overwhelmed.
Havelis, bazaars and quiet corners of the Pink City.
Simple rules for dress, shoes and respect.
Opening hours, closed days, how to buy tickets, which gate to use and how to avoid the crowds, in plain language.
Distance, travel time, comfort and cost of each way to get from Delhi to Agra, with a recommendation for different kinds of trip.
A realistic 7 day and 14 day plan for a first visit, with what to include, what to skip and how much to try to fit in.
A plain-language overview of the India tourist e-Visa, what you need to apply, and how to avoid unofficial websites. Rules change, so always
What the Kailasa Temple is, how it was carved, when to visit Ellora and how to combine it with Ajanta.
The evening fire ceremony on the Ganges is the best-known ritual in Varanasi. Here is how to watch it, from the steps, a boat or a balcony,
A practical guide to planning Kerala: how many days to give it, which places to include and which months suit which plan.
Rajasthan is bigger than it looks on a map. Here is how to choose cities and order them for four, five or seven days, without spending the t
A day-by-day plan for Varanasi, with the best order for the ghats, the aarti, the old lanes and Sarnath.
A fair comparison of private and group tours in India, so you can decide which suits your pace, budget and style.
Practical, honest advice for travelling alone in India, including women travellers, with the routes and habits that make it easier.
Agra has more than the Taj Mahal. This guide covers Agra Fort and the places that fill a half day around it, including what to do on a Frida
How to plan India with children: which routes work, how to set the pace and what children actually enjoy.
How to plan Jaipur for two, three or four days, with the right order for the forts, the City Palace and the bazaars.
A practical plan for Udaipur, with the City Palace, the lakes and the day trips to Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur.
How to spend two nights in Jaisalmer, with the fort, the havelis, Kuldhara and a night near the dunes.
How to reach Amritsar from Delhi, how long to stay and what to see besides the Golden Temple.
A two-day plan for Haridwar and Rishikesh, as an add-on to a north India trip.
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